Shooting hair Guestblog

Today a guestblog by Damien R. von Dahlem.
Shooting hair is difficult but also one of the things that I love to do, so when Damien offered to write a guestblog for me about this subject I could not wait. And today…. here it is.

 

 

Hairstyles Magazin

by: Damien R. von Dahlem / Hairstyles Magazine

If you frequently shoot fashion, and you have already paid for the model and the studio, with a quick lens and lighting change you can create a secondary income stream that will probably cover your initial expense of the shoot.

 

Hairstyle galleries are probably the single largest photo users on the Internet. When I started the very first hairstyles gallery in 1998, it was to help readers visualize the hair advice I was giving, and to aide them in finding a new hairstyle. Little did I know at the time the headache I was creating for myself, or that my idea would spawn an entire industry of hairstyle sites that now number in the hundreds of thousands.

 

Creating the gallery was not a problem as a college friend and I had developed a thumb nail link gallery system in the late 1980’s, before the Internet as we know it today was in full swing. The problem was finding the photos of the hairstyles I needed. The first hairstyle gallery, consisted entirely of a full disk of hairstyles that came with Corel Draw. I have no idea why Corel included the disk, but yeah for me.

 

The galleries were hugely popular but as you can image, fashion photos have a definite expiration date. I needed more hairstyles, and they needed to be up to date. With no other sources available at the time I had to shoot them myself. Happily I minored in fine art photography, and owned a couple of up scale salons with champion grade hairstylists.

 

These days, with my dwindling eye sight and patience, I no longer pick up the camera myself. I therefor have to rely on reader contributions, industry promo’s, and stock agencies for the photos I need. The frustration I face every year when screening thousands of photos, is that the photographer was not shooting for the hair industry, and thus most of the photos miss my criteria for one reason or another. As a result I far to often have to settle for less than idea photos and hairstyles.

 

Although I can’t speak for other hairstyle sites, by necessity their needs should be pretty much the same as mine, and here is what I need:

 

1. High key photos against a white backdrop. I love the low key photos for my own personal taste, but my readers want to print the hairstyle and take it in to their hair stylist. For this reason the lighting has to be perfect for the hair stylist to see how the hair was cut, and then be able to duplicate the cut.

 

2. Make sure you use a key light on the hair.

 

3. Although it well vary a little depending on the quality of the lens, I found that 85mm tends to yield the best results with little distortion. It isn’t a firm rule, but a good starting point.

 

4. A hairstyle photo is really a portrait shot, often with a little more shoulder and chest to hint at a fashion trend.

 

5. If it is a complex hairstyle, such as an asymmetrical cut, you will need more than one angle to illustrate the hairstyle. This is especially true when photographing up do’s. An up do is the most difficult hairstyle to create and you will do well to get it from all angles, including birds eye view.

 

6. Short hairstyles and medium length hairstyles are the most searched, and thus in demand more so than other hairstyles. Also keep an eye out for hairstyles with great coloring.

 

7. Don’t forget male hairstyles. Men are evermore aware of fashion trends and looking for great hairstyles too.

 

8. Ethnic diversity. There is no other way to say it, but there just aren’t very many good hairstyle photos out there when it comes to ethnic diversity. This more than anything else is a source of constant frustration for me. There is virtually nothing out there for Asian hair, and the vast majority of African American photos are styled in African tribal colors and prints. The black women who read my column and seek my advice, are either metropolitan, or urban in their look, and I need photos that reflect that fashion sense.

 

9. No matter how good the hairstyle, if the model’s skin and makeup are not absolutely flawless, I can’t use them. When it comes to makeup, more is often better.

 

10. A hairstyle fashion photo is just that, so don’t forget jewelry such as earnings, and a necklace if it makes sense to the style.

 

11. Lastly, when you upload them to your stock agency of choice, remember to tag your photo accordingly. If it isn’t tagged for hair, it is unlikely that I will ever see it. Also make sure that the photo is in high resolution. Although the usual sizes are 90 x 135 px for the thumb, and 300 x 450 px for the enlarged view, the photo may also make its way into navigation or a slider and need to be able to reproduce well there too.

 

The draw back is that stock agencies do not usually supply the name of the photographer, model, stylist and so on, so although I like to give credit, I don’t usually get the chance to do so. I will write more on getting your name out there in another article, so make sure you also have all of the copyright releases you will need.

 

I hope you found this article helpful, and look forward to your feedback.

11 replies
  1. Nathaniel Dodson
    Nathaniel Dodson says:

    This is a great article! I should probably incorporate shooting for hair as something I do in general purpose shoots where we go for a bunch of different things. It may yield some cool results! 
    Thanks for the info & insight, Damien!

    • Damien R. von Dahlem
      Damien R. von Dahlem says:

      Nathaniel, I am so glad you found this helpful. I knocked it out too fast though. Found two typing errors on reading the article. (Hate it when I do stupid stuff) Anyway, my sole goal was to reach just one person and actually be helpful. I feel good now. Thank you. Damien 

  2. Derek
    Derek says:

    As a hairstylist for 50+ years (Salon Owner & Editorial) and a photographer for almost as long, the biggest mistakes are…..
    1. Not enough depth of field, ALL of the hair needs to be tack sharp
    2. Interest is directed too much on the hair itself & not enough on the model. This type of shot only appeals to another hairstylist, but the best image is a great portrait of the model as primary interest.
    3. Hairstylists often pick models with great hair so they can be creative, whereas the prettiest models often have fine difficult hair (fine hair = great skin texture). A great looking model with a mediocre style will trump an ‘average’ model with a great hairdesign every time!
    4. Lighting is difficult, you need hard light on the hair & soft light on the face. You need to spend some time balancing these two sources. Back ‘rim’ light helps and separates the model/hair from the background
    5. The pose must have the model ‘communicating’ with the viewer, profile shots don’t work, back shots don’t work, the models eyes must be towards the camera.
    6. To see examples of great hair shots, look at top glossy fashion mags that feature a head shot on the cover……..first is to get a great head shot, then have the hair feature but not dominate the image.
    7. Finally,  You must be proficient in Post Processing, clean up all stray hairs, tweak highlights & shadows, and make sure it’s not OVERDONE so you end up looking artificial

    derek roe

    • Damien R. von Dahlem
      Damien R. von Dahlem says:

      Derek, Right on the mark. There is not one item you listed that I disagree with. I can hardly believe I forgot to add some of those points myself. Thank you so much for adding on to the article. Your comments could not be more relevant. 

  3. Derek Roe
    Derek Roe says:

    Damien,
    Glad you approved of my additions. Too many people think hair is easy to photograph, it is not! It’s bloody difficult at the best of times. 
    There are some times you break all the rules & come out with a dynamite result. One session with Barry Latagan in London we used 2 Softar filters on a Hasslblad & the photo looked almost completely out of focus but the mood was there and it made the picture.
    The object of the exercise is to produce a memorable photo first, then the details become part of that photo. Working with Irving Penn once he shot a photo for Wella when I was the Hairstylist, and shot it on an 8×10 plate camera. Now that took some work but it came out fantastic, (didn’t hurt that he was one of the worlds top shooters.} No polaroids, no multiple shots, 3 exposures & done.

    derek

    • Damien R. von Dahlem
      Damien R. von Dahlem says:

      Talking about large format cameras almost brings a tear to my eyes. I miss film. I miss the darkroom. I miss a good strobe setup. I miss buying high quality printing paper, and the cracks on the back of my hands because I refused to use cloves in the chemicals.

      I used to be quite tight with Wella, but not so much since P&G took over. Last time I sat with the Wella execs was at the Alternative Hair Show in Chicago. Vidal Sassoon was there, as was Irvine Rusk. It was memorable.

      Where have all the good old boys gone? Sorry. I am always lamenting the tragic loss of something or another.

      Anyway, never got to work with an 8 x 10 plate camera. Don’t think I would be able to bring myself to hit the shutter release.

    • Derek Roe
      Derek Roe says:

      Irvings still around but he was pretty ill for awhile. Harold leighton is now in Florida. I had a salon in Knightsbridge in the 60s & 70s so got to know everyone pretty well. As to Wella, they even bought one of my ‘teat shots’ for an ad campaign back then. Did a lot of work for all the glossys in London & a lot of work for ad agencies as well. That era was extrordinary, so much talent and no real animosity amongst the various salons (We used to beat the the Vidal football team every time we had a match on Sundays) There were some incredable photographers there as well and there was a thing called ‘house models’ where a salon would be the unofficial styling salon for top agencies, and they modelled for us free & we did their hair free, and on top of that we had a simailar arrangement with photographers as well.

      Never got into darkroom too much but used the top printer in London Robert Horner who printed all of Vidals photos. He had retoucher there, a girl who started retouching cinema film, an was great. She’d make a 4×5 copy negative, do all the retouching on te neg with brushes & Exacto knife then us that for final prints. Digital has done away with all that talent now. 

      The beauty industry is totally changed now with all the manufacturers being absorbed by giant corporations. I started Redken in my salon in London, Now is just another branch of a giant corp. For 15-20 years I toured the world for Redken (& the whoe of the USA) stories I could tell would make your hair curl.

      If you ever get to the San Francisco area look me up & I’ll give you the guided tour.

      I’ve pretty much retired from hair, but still work 1 day a week in a Salon that my wife runs. I’ve been working lately doing the photography for an Animal Rescue Shelter and that’s fun and for a good cause.

      derek
      http://www.derekroe.com

  4. a. scrubb
    a. scrubb says:

    This was a very insightful, informative and great read.  I am planning on doing a personal project about hair and both this article and comments could not be more valuable.  Thanks Damien!

  5. sana
    sana says:

    I am running a blog on hairstyles and looking to post some new and very attractive images of men’s and women’s haircuts, would you please tell me how to get them??

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